Diamond Shapes Guide
The short answer: the shape sets the look; the cut quality decides how well it sparkles. Rounds give the most sparkle. Ovals, pears and marquise cuts look long and elegant and need checking for a dark "bow-tie". Emerald and Asscher step cuts show inclusions more, so they need higher clarity. Princess, cushion and radiant cuts give a square or rectangular outline. Below is what to look for in each, using GIA's buying guidance, and where to find each shape at Divara.
Which diamond shape should I choose?
| Shape | The look | What to check | Ideal length-to-width (GIA) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Round brilliant | Maximum sparkle, classic | Cut grade matters most | 1.00:1 |
| Oval | Long and soft; lengthens the finger | Even, well-rounded shoulders; a minimal bow-tie | 1.33–1.66:1 |
| Pear | Teardrop, distinctive | Symmetrical wings, a semicircular round end, inclusions near the point; a V-prong protects the point | 1.50–1.75:1 |
| Marquise | Long and dramatic | Mirror-image halves, aligned points, the bow-tie; V-prongs protect both points | 1.75–2.25:1 |
| Emerald | Step cut: broad flashes, calm and architectural | Higher clarity, because inclusions are easier to see; even corners, parallel sides | — |
| Asscher | Square step cut, vintage | Parallel sides; clarity, as with emerald cuts | — |
| Princess | Square, crisp and modern | Parallel sides; protected corners | — |
| Cushion | Square with rounded corners, soft | Parallel sides | — |
| Radiant | Square or rectangular with brilliant sparkle | Parallel sides, even corners | — |
| Heart | Romantic, symbolic | Identical halves, a distinct cleft; under 0.5 ct the shape is hard to see | about 1.00:1 |
What is the bow-tie in an oval or pear diamond?
A bow-tie is a dark band across the middle of an elongated diamond, shaped like a bow tie. It's caused by how light leaves the stone, not by an inclusion, and almost every oval, pear and marquise shows some. GIA's advice is to look at the stone face-up and choose one where the bow-tie is minimal. Photos and video of the actual stone are the best way to judge it online.
Which diamond shapes look biggest for their carat weight?
Elongated shapes, such as ovals, pears and marquise cuts, spread their weight over a longer outline, so they tend to look larger face-up than a round of the same carat weight. Emerald cuts look long and open but show less sparkle. A round puts more of its weight into depth for sparkle.
Why do emerald cuts need higher clarity?
Emerald and Asscher cuts are step cut, with long, open facets like a staircase instead of a brilliant cut's many small sparkling facets. That openness is their appeal, but it also makes inclusions easier to see. GIA notes they need higher clarity for this reason. Check that the corners are even and the sides parallel.
Which shapes are best for everyday wear?
Rounds, ovals and cushions have no sharp points, so they're the most forgiving. Pears, marquise cuts, princess cuts and hearts have points or corners that are best protected by V-prongs or a bezel. Lab-grown diamonds are hardness 10, but any diamond can chip at a point under a hard knock.
Where can I see each shape at Divara?
Every made-to-order design can be set with a lab-grown diamond or moissanite, in 9K to 18K gold or platinum. A few examples, from their 9K lab-grown price on 29 October 2026:
- Round: Clara 1 Carat Round Claw Solitaire, from A$1,290
- Oval: Flora 1 Carat Oval Engagement Ring, from A$1,290
- Pear: Vera 2 Carat Pear Toi et Moi, from A$2,090
- Emerald: Vera 1 Carat Emerald Collet Three Stone, from A$1,290
- Princess: Vera 1 Carat Princess Solitaire, from A$1,290
- Cushion: Sienna 1 Carat Cushion Engagement Ring, from A$1,620
- Marquise: Sienna 1 Carat Marquise Collet Three Stone, from A$1,290
- Radiant: Vera 1.5 Carat Radiant Cut Three Stone, from A$1,950
- Heart: Amara 1 Carat Heart Graduated Three Stone, from A$1,290
- Asscher: Vera 2 Carat Asscher Collet Three Stone, from A$2,620
Not sure which suits your hand? Book a free video consultation and we'll show shapes side by side. For budgets, see engagement rings under A$2,000.
Sources
- GIA 4Cs, Purchasing fancy-shaped diamonds
- Divara Jewellery catalogue prices, 29 October 2026